Travels to the land of canned coffee: day 2

27 April 2008

As expected, I decided to ignore my alarm, trapped by warm blankets on the warm floor, and the knowledge that cold air awaited me once I stepped into the bathroom.

I caught the 9 o'clock bus to 진도읍 (which is when I started writing this). We arrived just before 10. I inquired about the next bus to 뽕할매동 and learned that it wasn't hourly: the next one would depart at 11. I had an hour to kill.

I saw the funniest man at the bus terminal. He had brown socks and gray shoes, and too-short pants that revealed the sock-shoe faux-pas. The only reason I noted this, though, is because he had Susie-Q brown curls (gawd I hope it was a wig). Attractively placed in these curls were two pink bows. Cute.

By this time I was ready for a decent cup of coffee and ventured out to find a coffee shop (this canned stuff feeds the addiction but is otherwise unsatisfactory). The sight of a Paris Baguette raised my hopes, but I soon forgot my coffee when I came across the outskirts of a small open-air market.

It was fun. It's a mixture of cheap clothes, plants, food carts, and fresh meat and produce. I swear, I saw basil plants, but I doubt I can find a basil plant in rural 진도 when I've never seen it in 서울 shops. I bought two small scarves for 천원 each. (I'm not sure if I'll be able to transcribe this when I get home; I'm writing this in a bus on a bumpy road.)

The meat section of the market was chock-full of seafood: small squids lying in ink-filled tubs, frozen whole fish of all sizes and colours, skates, eels squirming crazily in their tubs and fresh clams measured out by the pailful. Freshly plucked whole chickens (and a few roosters) were a fair distance from the pens that housed live chickens and little black pigs (I don't know if I've ever seen a black pig before).

A nice thing about the market is that the only dogs sold are little 진도 puppies bred as pets, not for food. The horrors of the 모란 meat market still haunt me. I've chosen not to adopt the Korean nickname for dogs: 똥개, or poop dog. Instead, I mentally call them 개고기, and occasionally I worry that I'll slip and my mental nickname will become a verbal nickname. That could be a bit awkward.

진도읍 market outskirts; man with the straw triangle hat in the center

As I walked through the market something struck me that only adds to 진도's attractions: nobody stares! I made eye contact with others, but, with a few exceptions, they nonchalantly looked away. People here are too busy living their own lives to be concerned with what people invade their homogeneous bubble. Such a far cry from the "OMG, a 외국인!" reaction that I've grown accustomed to--grown accustomed to, but still dislike and mock. And in the unlikeliest of places: a rural island in the SW that is only seasonally flooded with tourists.

On the bus I noted another beautiful thing about these people. The bus was crowded with 할머니s, all loaded down with produce they had bought at the market. At the front of the bus sits a woman who logs in the number of passengers to ensure that the bus company is accordingly paid by the driver. She also takes the 할머니s' groceries, helps them mount the steep three steps, returns their groceries, and helps them again when they disembark. I thought that was a really wonderful thing.

허동리 is beautiful, despite its initial drabness. Small dories are moored at the end of a short concrete pier, waiting to ferry passengers to nearby islands.

I sat for awhile along the water's edge, writing and staring out at the water. It's cloudy, occasionally sprinkling (cursed forecast!) but still it's a wonderful sight, I love the smell of the ocean, and the nearby islands block the cold breeze (once again regretting not bringing my shell).

My mom called and while we were talking I noticed people descending a small hill. I had been so busy looking out at the water that it had completely escaped my notice. I began to climb up a wide trail lined with azaleas. 진도 azaleas are pretty -- a different hue from those in 서울. It was a 10-minute walk at most, including the time it took to snap some photos. The top was rewarding: azaleas and small pine trees framed the ocean and islands below.


One thing: I hit a few dead spots, and I'm sure my mom and I called each other and connected at least four times, but it was a long conversation. Basically I gave her a shortened version of this blog. That, and she gave me some mom-lectures about my finances and taxes, and voiced her worries about my safety, traveling solo; a condensed version was repeated shortly thereafter by my father.

I'm now updated. I'm on the bus back to 목포, where I'll catch a train back to 서울.

When I left home I was a bit concerned about going solo, though I did it from time to time back in the States. My uncertainty about finding an ATM in a rural area in case of an emergency, my incomplete knowledge of the language, and my nearly non-existent knowledge of the area (apart from my LP) filled me with doubts which usually don't bother me. However, I found that I need not have worried. No emergencies arose, and my Korean didn't fail me (nor did my phone dictionary). Most importantly, though, I encountered some wonderful, generous and helpful people during my short stay. I think that sometimes we have to leave our familiar zones and be dependent on our own strength and other people's knowledge, because this gives us an opportunity to rediscover both ourselves and the beautiful side of humanity.

I had a great time here. I'm excited to get back to the bright lights and fast pace of home, but I really hope to return to this area. This was a wonderful experience, and I still have .33 km of a mountain to conquer.

My hand is cramping from so much writing. For now, this trip blog is complete, unless something exciting happens on the way home. I've been writing this in the blank spaces of a sudoku book, having forgotten a journal. So now it's time for sudoku.

* * *

목포
It was nearly 3:45 by the time I arrived at 목포역 from 진도읍. Taking the bus from the bus terminal to the train station reminded me of how stressful life can be up north. here the streets are lined with cars, but traffic flows smoothly. The lack of traffic is telling: where my bus driver could be heard loudly cussing at stupid drivers, SW bus drivers yell loudly into their cell phones with their thick accents, sing along with the radio, or talk to you through the rearview mirror. Yet I still love my bus drivers, swerving through oncoming traffic, or squeezing the orange to cross an intersection, if not just outright running red lights. You've gotta appreciate their dedication.

I was hoping out here in the boons booking an early train would be simple, but I didn't get one until 19:00...for 60K원. Is that a first class ticket? The price seems a bit...steep.

I had three hours to kill, so I began by looking for a place to eat. I had breakfast, a kid-sized granola bar that did nothing for me, and countless cans of coffee. Needless to say, I was slightly hungry.

I looked around for about a 1/2 hour, finding no suitable restaurants (I'm right here and I want seafood!). I finally decided to end my fruitless search and look around town. Land's End was only a few km away, so I headed in that direction. I got into a small port, beside which was a small fish market. It was a nice stroll.

With two hours left I headed back towards the station, near which I had spotted a small restaurant advertising 낙지 비빔밥. It was good, but the 반찬 was better. I swear, 반찬 in the south is uber-yummy. They know what they're all about down here. Must be all this fresh produce and fish juice.

I'm sitting in the station right now, waiting for my train to start boarding. I'm gonna be exhausted when I get home.

* * *

SHE BOOKED ME A FIRST CLASS TICKET! Dang it! I'd better get a freakin glass of wine, or I'll be uber irked.

And instead of a window I have the big plastic wall between the windows. Wonderful...

Being a positive person -- or actually a realist who recognizes the good as well as the bad -- no screaming children in this section! w00T!

* * *

I tried to sleep, since it's quiet, and I know I'll get home late. I even put on my sunglasses and hit my classical & opera playlist, but to no avail. I rarely sleep in moving vehicles. I guess I'm a picky sleeper. I sometimes envy people who can sleep anywhere, until they drool on themselves for all the world to see, or lean their heads on the greasy spot on the subway.

(In between Andrea Bocelli I heard something that sounded suspiciously like a fart, and I do hope it was the music-warped sound of a grunt.)

But to add, I can't sleep because I did some sudokus. Have you noticed that when you do puzzles, then let your mind rest, or try to sleep, all you can think about are ways to solve the puzzles? Like after playing Meteos I'll place coloured blocks into their imaginary cells, then try to match them up. Same thing with sudoku. It's kinda like going to bed after being on the water too long -- you can still feel the boat's rocking. So, no sleeping. Back to sudoku.

* * *

Too many people are apparently farting in their sleep. The whole car smells of catbutt, and I'm not referring to the car freshener. I hope there are no accidental sparks, or we're all gonna go up in flames.

Travels to the land of canned coffee: day 1

26 April, 2008

My trip to the SW was fairly interesting. Of course I got up much later than my alarm. The fatigue which has plagued me this week was still affecting me -- that, and my insatiable need to be lazy. Needless to say, I was not about to catch the 9:15 train. The next train was at 11 sharp, so I left my flat around 9:30. Traveling by myself, I was sure that I would be able to purchase a ticket.

As luck would have it, I was not paying attention and caught the wrong bus. The story is quite amusing (now) and pays tribute to my peerless conceit in my directional 'street sense' (which is usually quite reliable, I might add). I saw the 1005-1 bus and chose to ignore it, knowing that it goes through the busy 강남 district. The 9000 bus approached, and when I saw that no seats remained (my 3-hour walking journey to locate grandma's hospital was still plaguing me), I ran to a 9400 bus behind it. When I boarded I saw that it was nearly empty. Ah yes, I thought myself pretty smart, indeed.

Until I saw the numbers. Of course, I just hopped on a 9400 bus, expecting it to be a 9401, which passes by quite frequently.

It wasn't. Instead, it bypasses the 경부 expressway, arcs around 천계산, and lands in 서초, hitting 양재, 강남 & 논현 stations before traversing west to 여의도역. As we trekked past lakes and hills, I considered my options: I could go all the way to 여의도 & catch the train back to 용산, or I could get off at 양재 and take the train to 용산. The 여의도 route would have to contend with traffic, whereas the 양재~용산 subway ride could take close to an hour. I opted for the 양재 route, and it was about this time that doubts of catching the 11 o'clock began to surface.

I got off at 양재, and it was while waiting for the crosswalk light that another idea hit me: take the 1005-1 downtown! Why I didn't consider this before is beyond me.

I boarded the 1005-1, waited with more than usual patience for the 강남 traffic, and got off at 종각 at 10:30. The subway was annoyingly slow. I could count the track boards from 종각 to 사청. Finally got to 용산 at quarter to 11 and was pleasantly surprised to get a seat on the 11 o'clock.

The train ride was uneventful. I dedicated a short amount of time to my Lonely Planet (henceforth LP) actually somewhat planning my trip, and had decided on visiting 두륜산 for a short hikey-hike. I would take the bus from 목포 to 해남, then from 해남 to 두륜산 Provincial Park. 두륜산 includes 대둔사, a Zen temple complex, and one of the hikes mentioned is to 두륜봉, where one can catch a glimpse of the ocean. Lodging would be acquired, sleep slept, and then I would head out to 진도 on Sunday.

Sidenote: why is it that the people who sleep on trains invariably get the window seat? (I'm taking the bus from 해남 to 진도읍 and a firefighter just boarded. He's cute. Especially in his orange jumpsuit. I like orange. I'm destined for a firefighter. ...Or a convict. Our bus driver is watching the TV instead of the road and we're sitting at a green light.)

Where was I? Oh, well, the sleeping window seat lady got off about midway to 목포, and as the train got emptier the further south we traveled, I consequently moved over. The scenery was boring: farms and plastic-sheeted green houses. I can see why the average age in the countryside keeps increasing. (The lady on TV has obviously had a boob job.) As we approached 목포, though, the hills became more frequent, enveloped in blue clouds (stupid weather forecast predicted sunshine), and the sight of lonely farms surrounded by the hills was quite pretty.

목포, from my 40 minutes spent there, is quite interesting: a unique concoction of high rises staccato'd with 기와-topped houses.

It was a lot colder than I had expected. I began to wish I had brought my shell with me. There was a Columbia store up the road, but I decided to tough it out. I grabbed a bus to the Bus Terminal to head out to 해남.

The ride to 해남 was exasperating. A fat 아저씨 sat next to me, smelling of stale smoke and sweat, and his big butt crossed the boundary line onto my seat. His leg would have rubbed mine (ugggh!), but I wisely crossed my leg man-style, ankle over knee, so that his leg touched the sole of my shoe instead of my leg. At that point, I was annoyed enough not to be too concerned with what I may have stepped in.

In 해남 I checked the bus schedules and decided it would be prudent to get a 여관 in 해남 instead of 대흥사, the small touristy village that sits at the base of 두륜산. This way I wouldn't have to take a bus to 해남 Sunday morning; I could just go directly to 진도 without taking too much of my time. (Bye bye cute firefighter, hello bearded straw-triangle hat farmer... We just passed a small bay and just seeing the ocean reconfirmed what I had thought yesterday: I'm gonna have to come here again.)

The 여관 owners were very friendly and complimented my Korean, which just indicated to me that they were very friendly. All I did was ask if there was an available room, and made sure there was an attached bathroom. The room was surprisingly clean, and I just used some hand sanitizer on the toilet seat before I was comfortable (which bears testimony to how much my germophobia has lessened since moving here).

I returned to the bus terminal (a whole two-minute walk) and caught a bus to 대흥사. It was just before six when I arrived. A taxi stand was right next to the bus stop. I waited about 20 minutes for the shuttle to 대둔사 before deciding it was not worth my time. Sunset was quickly approaching and I wanted to reach 두륜봉--a 1.5 hour trek--by sunset so I could take pictures. I approached the taxi driver and requested prices: 8K원 to 해남 and 3K원 to 대둔사.

The ride to 대둔사 was about 20 minutes (40 on foot, LP said). It was delightful. I rolled down the window and enjoyed the scenery and fresh air. My driver, like 서울 drivers, is no stranger to his horn; he constantly honked at the hikers who crowded the roads. As we drove by, I heard some hikers talking and recognized 'taxi.' I'm not sure, but my paranoid side thinks they were mocking me for being young and taking a taxi down the untaxing road. But I was on a schedule. I asked the driver what time sunset was; he told me seven. I had a bit less than an hour to reach the summit.

The road coursed alongside a rocky creek and the trees ranged in shades of green. It reminded me of Great Falls, VA, but the colourful lanterns hung in preparation for Buddha's birthday only added a sweet festivity to the rustic beauty.

대둔사 does justice to its surroundings. this temple complex is more in tune with nature than its sisters in 서울, or even 불국사 in 경주. Instead of open dirt courtyards, it boasts small ponds, shrubbery, trees and blooming flowers.

대둔사

I approached a monk to get directions to 두륜봉. I know that monks aren't backward, but somehow I expected a monk out here, removed from mid-peninsular urbanity, to be less-technologically inclined and modern. I was surprised. When he learned I'm American he addressed me in broken, but understandable, English. In a mixture of Korean and English he told me that it's a 3 o'clock (he meant three-hour) hike to the peak and back. He pulled up his sleeve to check a watch that wasn't there, then pulled a cell phone out of his pocket to check the time. He told me it would be dark soon, and I shouldn't go. I told him (in English) that I'd go fast, and remembering from past experience that body language is key to bilingual communication (Jen is always keen to say that it's 80% of communication), I bent my arms and moved them up and down, as if I were running.

He obviously understood my body language more than my words because he responded with, "Run no good."

I smiled, shook my head, and responded (this time in Korean) "I'll hurry." He nodded, still skeptical, I smiled and 인사'd, and we parted. I took a few minutes to snap some more pix of the complex, then hurriedly set off, constantly checking the orange setting sun at my back.

Beginning of the trail...how simple and deceiving!

(Sidenote - I'm now on the bus from 진도읍 to 뽕할매동 and just witnessed a farmer tending his rice crop -- the first time I've seen that!)

The hike was arduous, to say the least. After a few 100 metres I reached a sign that informed me that I had a 2.3 km hike to my destination. In hindsight, I think the sign was lying; it felt more like a 5-k hike!

Keeping the monk's words in mind, as I climbed I spotted and grabbed a stout 6-ft. long piece of bamboo in case I encountered any large, uncuddleable animals. Even at the time I mocked myself; I had no idea what I would have done with it if I came across a hungry pack of wolves (I have no idea what dangerous animals -- if any -- frequent the area; LP didn't really address that). Nevertheless, I deceived myself into feeling safer and welcomed the extra burden.

I made multiple 10-second stops on the way. I can lie to myself -- and to my readers -- by saying these were solely for the purpose of rearranging my gear (putting my camera in my bag, stripping off sweaty layers as my body temp. increased, etc.) but they all had a dual purpose: the other being to give my screaming muscles and lungs a breather.

As visibility decreased I began to worry. I had thought to pack my flashlight as I lay in bed Friday night but of course with my unwillingness to get out of bed, coupled with my forgetfulness the next morning, that didn't happen. By this time there was a mountain between me and the setting sun and the trees contributed to the darkness, so I deduced that it wasn't really this dark (simultaneously ignoring the fact that it would still be darker than the rest of the trail later) and obstinately pressed on.

As I climbed, the path became narrower and rockier; about midway the foot-sized, ankle-turning stones had been replaced with knee-high mini-boulders. It was difficult going up in the dusk; it would be nearly impossible descending in the dark without any injuries. I kept an eye on the sky and was about to turn around when a bend in the trail revealed tall grass blowing in a strong breeze.

Excitement hit me. I quickly scrambled to the top and was nearly hysterical, the moment was so beautiful. The wind was cold and strong so I hastily replaced my layers of clothing. I ran towards the edge and looked down at the islands below. It was considerably lighter near the summit and the view was fantastic. On my left was a peak; on my right was a large outcropping boulder: 두륜봉.

두륜봉

My only regret is that I left my journey incomplete: 두륜봉 was still .33 km away and I knew I had to leave in order to reach the base by dark.

I scrambled down the small boulders and jogged the rest of the way down, walking when it seemed too dangerous to jog. I'm sure I took at least two years off my kneecaps on that one. However, it seemed more treacherous to walk than jog (I almost turned my ankle twice walking, none while jogging). So I resumed my jog.

It was nearly dark by the time I reached 대둔사. I looked around for a taxi and checked the time. No taxis, and it was nearly 7:30. The last bus to 해남 was at 8. I'll admit: I'm cheap (I prefer to consider myself practical, but cheap suffices) and I'd rather spend 천원 on a bus than 8K원 on a taxi, so I began jogging down the street to 대흥산.

As I ran a group of 아저씨s approached me and one asked me for directions. In the fading light his friend recognized my foreign features and with an incredulous cry of "위국인!" began to mock his buddy for getting directions from a foreigner. hahhahaha

LP noted that it's a 40 minute walk, but I'm not sure about that: it took me about 25 minutes to jog it. And the road was much more beautiful in a taxi in the afternoon than running at night with a backpack. Ha!

The bus stop I got off at is about 15 meters uphill from another, closer, bus stop. Uncertain about whether the bus stopped there, I opted for the safe route and speed-walked the remaining distance to the uphill bus stop.

Good thing I hurried because the last bus arrived at 7:55, a whole FIVE minutes before 8.

...And the bus also stops at the downhill bus stop. dang.


I was famished by the time I reached 해남. I quickly stopped by my room to wash up and exchange my backpack for my purse, then set off in search of a restaurant.

Turns out that was the most difficult task of the day. The town virtually shuts down by 8, with the exception of a few 소주집s and hofs. I finally ended up at a restaurant near my 여관 (I walk for 25 minutes to land at a place 5 minutes away!) and enjoyed some 해장국. This was the only menu item that isn't made for parties of two or more. And this wasn't the nasty stuff laden with near-hotdog-level strips of fat: this was the stuff with real meat! Served up with some tasty 반찬, and I had a very nice meal.

When I got back to my room I enjoyed a nice hot shower. The hot water did take some coaxing, but it came through for me in the end. With the warm floor and English channel cable TV (which I still haven't bought), I was ready for bed.