Well, the night before I left Al gave me a journal to document my time in, so I'm just going to copy it word for word. That way everybody can see what's going through my head when it happens. So read and enjoy.
5 p.m. CT; 11 July 2007
When Al gave this to me she told me that she would read it when I return. So I suppose I'll just get started.
I'm currently on a Boeing 777 from Dallas to Tokyo. It looks like we've been on the plane for about 5 hours right now -- it's 5:05 -- and we're soaring over the Bering Sea.
This is a bit awkward. I'm so accustomed to typing that writing is kind of difficult.
I've got the window seat, & it's quite pleasant. Right now all I can see are clouds, but the view over the States was beautiful. We were flying over Idaho, I think, and (I'm opening a watermelon jolly rancher - yummy!) it was amazing to look over foothills and mountains that look like insignificant bumps and knowing that the blue puddles among them are really lakes. The most interesting sight, though, was when we went over some fields -- this is not related to the fact that we've been in Kansas for the past 10 years! But from above it looked like abstract art, a pastel work: tawny yellow, browns, burnt orange, and greens, all arrayed in a pattern of circles inset into squares. Some of the circles even looked black. [here I have a really nice picture; step aside, picasso!]
There are two seats in our partial row and my row partner is a bit...what should I say...shortsighted. I was watching Disturbia (it's a good movie!) & wasn't too bothered because the movie had already climaxed, but he laid his elbow right on top of my screen remote & blasted the volume. (We're currently at 34,000 feet & -59F -- chilly! I just lifted my blind and there is an ice crystal formed on the INSIDE of the outer window. I hope that's not a bad thing...) But other than that he's had his arm on my side of the rail. I feel so juvenile, like when Austin & I used to draw the line down the middle of the back seat during road trips. But it's already cramped enough without having to lean away from the armrest just so you don't have arm hairs brushing up against you. Gross. I'll just describe him & then that'll be the end of it. He's about maybe middle-aged, with gray hair & is either Middle Eastern or Central Asian. Other than the elbow over the armrest he seems like a nice guy. Like I said, just a bit short-sighted.
I got two hours of sleep last night & slept a bit on the way to Dallas, but I just can't go to sleep now. dang.
Still just clouds. I wish it was clear -- then I could see some crabbing vessels from Deadliest Catch. haha
Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles comes on in 10 minutes, so it looks like that's what I'll spend my next two hours doing. "Are we done yet?" is on channel 1, but I don't know what that's about.
I brough my LSAT prep book on board but haven't gotten past a few paragraphs. I'm going to take the test again. Yeah. I know. But I can't help myself. All I need is a 170 & I'll be satisfied. But if I don't get that on this go-around, I'll just embrace mediocrity & revel in it. heehee
7:20 p.m. CT; same day
We just had supper. It's only 7 o'clock but the cabin is dimly lit and I'm so tired that it feels like nighttime until I open the blind & realize that it's broad daylight outside (we're just west of Alaska & it's 4 o'clock local time. We're approaching the international date line, where it suddenly changes from today to tomorrow). But hanging out with Jon and Athena so much lately, I ordered a coffee because that's our nightly ritual. That little action itself reminded me of them and I wish I was able to talk to them right now as I would drink my coffee on the plane, and they'd drink at Dunn's or Starbucks or maybe Aida's. Today I took my coffee black as usual, but I taste a hint of nostalgia...God, I'm getting so poetic -- what's wrong with me?
The clouds beneath us are so flat on top I can't help but wonder whether we're floating above a large ice pack. I think we're about 1/2way thru the flight. :)
1 a.m. CT; same day
First impressions of Japan - Narito Airport, Tokyo
Probably the best part of the trip was when we took a sharp bank ot the port (my side) & simultaneously began a steep descent. (I'm writing this & reflecting on the irony that after a 13-hour flight, I'm sitting down writing in a journal). We had been between two strata of clouds & the waves had been miniscule, but when we began the descent it looked like we'd land right into the ocean. (I just heard two ajummas speaking Korean & you can't imagine what a relief it is -- I'm almost home!) Yet, despite thefact that we were considerably closer to sea level than before, we were still above some clouds!
I was momentarily distracted by the flight tracker on the screen but turned back to the window just in time to see the waves lapping onto the shore. That was a beautiful moment -- it's just like you'd imagine waves rolling onto Japan. In a split second we flew into a wall of clouds -- thick, so thick I couldn't see the wingtip at times, but occassionally I could see through clouds, and this is one of the greenest countries in the world -- like on par with Ireland. But maybe it's just because it's monsoon season; I don't know.
At this point I'm sitting in gate 83, which I really hope is the right gate, especially after hearing people speak Korean. I've gotten about 3 hours of sleep in two days, I haven't showered in nearly 24 hours, I've eaten 3 meals in the last 20 hours, I've watched 3 movies, read 10 pages of a book, consumed two jolly ranchers & wiped my glasses once. Now I'm going to the bathroom to freshen up -- I'd put a pile of crap to shame.
This has got to be the hottest airport in human history. I'm sure it's at least 80F. I feel like the sweaty American. gross. But it looks like nobody else has this problem... :( I've put in my contacts & feel like they've melded into my eyeballs. I think I just made up that word -- like melted & welded. or maybe it's an established word I'm trying to take credit for. hmmm...
I've come to the conclusion that Japanese and Koreans are pretty much the same. I think I'd get disowned by the ROK and DPRK, but sitting here in Tokyo (I don't want to wait at the gate so I'm sitting on my luggage next to a column in the terminal) I'm finding it difficult to distinguish between them. I think the only difference is that our food is better and their government is [crappier]. haha I've found my way back into the good graces of the whole Korean population.
And there are people wearing suits! It's way too hot for suits!!
And I keep seeing women running around in skinny jeans. The thing about skinny jeans -- the ultimate Catch-22 -- is that you have to be skinny to wear them. If you have more than 3 cubic inches of fat on your thighs you immediately transform skinny jeans into fat jeans. I tried getting some before I came out here but couldn't bring myself to do it because no matter how decent my calves looked, my thighs looked like a hippo in a leotard. And that can never be rationalized into being attractive. My grandmother gave my mom very practical advice when she was a girl: don't gamble and don't get in debt over your head. My mom passed that wisdom onto me, & she added even more important advice: never wear things that are too small because they make you look bigger. Thus: no skinny jeans unless I go under the knife. haha
They're going to start boarding soon. Yay! Hopefully they believe in air conditioning the plane. Actually it's not so hot anymore. Perhaps it was hot before because I was sitting right next to a group of Korean boys who were using their notebooks (most likely playing Starcraft).
Good news. In 5-6 hours what was possible the longest day of my life will be drawing to a close. But before that I'll be returning to this to record my return to Korea after 23 years.
There's a man standing next to me with a Louis Vuitton bag. Only in Asia...
In line to board I was behind a pretty cute guy. He had on Armani cologne. Here's how we know we're in NE Asia: amidst this hotness & great scent I caught a faint whiff of fish. Yes, he was carrying a box of frozen dried fish. How does this go through customs?
When I got on two girls that are sitting next to me spoke to me in English. It's kind of funny that they knew off the bat that's I'm American and their English was so good I thought they were Californians. But they're Korean citizens.
Seohyun-gu, Bundang-dong, Seongnam-shi, Gyeonggi-do, ROK
Midnight; 14 July 2007
How's that for a location? Good thing I didn't include my building address.
Ok, so I've skipped a few days, but I'll try to include everything in between. Obviously I was too tired to write when I arrived in Korea, so here's the update.
When we disembarked -- no, let's go back. It had been cloudy in Japan, but the skies were clear over Korea. It was beautiful seeing the western islands -- my first view of Korea that I can remember. I had slept a bit on the plane & I'm so glad that I woke up in time to see Korea from the air.
Now -- when we disembarked, I was a bit worried about customs, immigration, & my taxi ride to Seongnam-shi. But it all went smoothly. I got a cart ( they cost 3000 W I think but I didn't pay because 1) it was in Korean so I wasn't sure it even cost anything 2) I hadn't exchanged any $ yet & 3) I didn't know where to pay. Actually, before this I went thru immigration, & saw the guy stamp my passport. Yay! It's been 12 years (1/2 my life!) since I've taken an international flight, & that was when I was a kid, so I really didn't know what to expect. But it turned out all right.
I met the driver after going through customs. He had a sign. Awesome. I can finally say that I was the person for whom the guy with the sign was waiting. He loaded my stuff in the cab (this thing was great - the fare maching had GPS). It was an hour long drive. I stayed awake long enough to watch Seoul roll by...and roll...and roll, but I fell asleep soon after. And the Han River (known as the "Han-gong River" to the same people who say "ATM machine") is mighty indeed. Puts the Potomac from Lincoln Memorial to Arlingon (at least a 20 minute stroll) to shame.
One more thing about the taxi drive. On the way we were either stopped in a random roadblock or the driver was speeding. I don't know what the driver said to the cop, but I kept hearing 외국인 (waygoogin or foreigner) & I think he convinced the cop to let him go or the foreigner would get a bad impression of Korea.
Young-ji met us at the apartment (actually, an officetel). Talking with her on the phone, she sounded like my 자근이모, but not so much in person. She's an English teacher (I'm known as a "Native English teacher"), about 29, about mom's height, and really nice.
My flat is on the 17th floor. OK, first, the building. 24 floors, and the second one is banks, a Bennigans, a Happy Time bar, and other businesses. Above and below are te apartments, which are either occupied by tenants as homes or businesses. My neighbor on the right is a spa; my neighbor on the left is a skin care business.
Back to my flat. I love this. To enter, I can either use a key or punch in my code. When I have visitors I can see their pretty smiling faces on the screen & either let them in, or press what I call the "panic button," which I imagine will summon the police, swat team, the KCIA & the Ghostbusters.
The place was a dump. There were yellow sticky greasy splatters all over the kitchen & enough hair in the shower drain to evoke jealousy from the creepy ladies in the Grudge, Dark Water, Pone, or any other Asian movie that has a scary hair scene. So here's the situation: I've been here since Thursday night at 11:30 (two days & 1/2 hour) & in those two days, I've worked 8.5 hours, slept 16 hours, grocery shopped for 2.5 hours, used the internet for 2 hours, walked around for 3 hours, ate/supped for 2-3 hours & cleaned for 9 hours.
Thursday night I showered so I wouldn't have to Friday morning. I set my alarm for 7 a.m., as Young-ji was picking me up at 8 to go with me to school. I ended up getting into bed around midnight. Then, I woke up at 6. Mathematically speaking, that's Impossible. Jet lag + sleep deprivation DNE waking up at 6. But I couldn't sleep so I just decided to get up. I got ready quickly and decided to take a short stroll. Yay for the mini-mart!
Young-ji & I took the bus to school. The first few periods I didn't have class so I put together my "introductory speech" and met some of the other staff. The teachers are really nice. Including Young-ji, there are seven English teachers, all women. I was surprised when I saw them -- I think 5/7 are under 35.
Classes were rough. Monday is the last day of class & students know that their grades have already been submitted, so they were pretty rowdy.
I wasn't sure how teachers do lunch -- I assumed they might go out & eat. Much better: the school provides lunch. Friday was seaweed soup. rice, kimchi, some greens that were really tasty, & fried squid. My first meal in Korea was awesome.
Tally for day 1 - Gifts from coworkers
3 Twix
2 Milky Ways
1 yogurt drink
1 Welch's grape juice
1 orange juice
1 chocopie
1 ttuk
I like my coworkers. :)
Oh, and there's this really hot teacher. I think he may be a P.E. teacher. Although the Home Economics teachers are male...even better - they can take care of themselves.
After school Young-ji & I went to a bookstore to find some material for summer camp. Then on to Samsung Plaza food court for my 비빔넹면 (bibimnangmyun). So far, my culinary experience in Korea has been excellent.
Last night I tackled the bathroom sink, toilet, and creepy-Asian-lady-hair shower.
This morning was early again -- 7 am. Another stroll, then back to cleaning. I vacuumed, & scrubbed the floor. Rearrange the furniture, wipe the tables & couch and then...the kitchen. Scrub, scrub, scrub & uh-oh, the faucet doesn't work. So back and forth between the bathroom & the kitchen to rinse out the towel.
I met Young-ji for lunch to discuss summer camp (the other teachers have class Saturday mornings, but I'm HOME FREE!) We went to "Pasta & Pizza" where I had a better white sauce pasta than any place I've been to in the States.
Oh wait, backtrack: on my walk today I discovered (drum roll) a Dunkin' Donuts. Get this: in the United States I have to drive/fly for hours to eat Dunkin' Donuts; in Korea I walk two blocks & Voila! So...Bismarcks are yummy.
Today was my western day. In addition to Dunkin' Donuts & pasta, after lunch we stopped by a coffee shop where I had mocha iced coffee. (When Koreans go out it's a multiple stop affair. The gives people the opportunity to split costs & leave at opportune moments instead of in the middle of an outing. People rarely sit around a restaurant talking -- they go grab coffee or juice or drinks for that.)
Back to cleaning the kitchen. It's almost finished. I just have to clean the rice cooker & microwave, clear the counter, & clean the outside of the washing maching. Other than that, clean the bathroom and FINIS.
Tonight I headed down to "Times Square" & visited my first PC bang. I didn't know what to do so after a short conversation the lady took me to the computer. Conversation:
Me: 미국사람입니다 (I'm an American)
Owner: 인떠내뜨? (Internet?)
Me: 네 (Yes)
When I left the PC bang there was a large crowd gathered in the middle of the square. I walked towards it to see what was going on & two guys were boxing. Like with gloves. One guy was really good & the other guy sucked. It was kinda fun to watch.
Back in the apartment -- I left the light off. I feel really safe here. The neighborhood is fast and urban, but very bougie & safe. And the idea that I'm living in a quiet apartment surrounded by people is reassuring (although it's quiet, I can occassionally hear something, so I know people could hear me screaming).
There's an apartment building across the courtyard & it's kind of fun to people-watch. One lady hula-hooped non-stop for maybe 4 minutes. That takes talent. But at the same time, it's disconcerting that I'm watching people across a courtyard. I feel comfortable changing or dressing with the window open because I know that nobody's watching. The hula-hoop lady probably thinks the same thing. haha
Off to bed soon, but before that, some observations:
1) I won't be too miserable food-wise. When I get sick of Korean food, I can have Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese or Italian. Or Pizza Hut, Papa Johns, McDonalds, Subway, Starbucks, Baskin Robbins, Krispy Kreme, KFC, or more Dunkin' Donuts.
2) Koreans have a love affair with food & drink but it doesn't show. Restaurants open early & close late, there's a fried food stand on every corner, and Koreans consume more soju than rice, but they're for the most part skinny. I wouldn't consider myself overly heavy, but compared to the women -- and men! -- I'm definitely on the large side. :(
3) Korean women have remarkable ankles. I have traipsed across some of the roughest sidewalks known to humankind -- uneven, & steep when approaching a street -- one day in heels, and though I see women in heels all the time (heels go with everything: suits, shorts, warm-ups) I have yet to see one with an ankle brace. Mad skillz
2 comments:
FUN!!!
But how could you not mention Ringu, the grand-daddy of all scary hairy Asian movies?
Forgot; How did you like TMNT?
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