Current Events part 3

So I've been studying like mad for my LSAT, and I'm only posting this because I needed a break and this was almost finished anyhow.

독도 (Dokdo/獨島): [I have no sarcastic subtitle for this]

Background: Japan's been claiming Dokdo since the ROK's founding, and lately it decided to take a different approach. The issue was basically unknown in Japan, and they recently implemented a plan to include in public school curricula that Dokdo is Japanese. Coincidentally, it was around this time that the US Library of Congress considered changing its registry from Dokdo as Korean land, to the Liancourt Rocks as disputed territory. This was delayed by a Korean-Canadian librarian. Also, it was discovered that the US Board of Geographical Names had changed its entry from Dokdo as Korean land, to the Liancourt Rocks as disputed territory. In addition, in its list of other names, it places Takeshima (Japan's name for the island) before Dokdo. Need I say that this doesn't make alphabetical sense? President Bush, on learning of it from the Korean Embassy, worked with Secretary Rice to change the entry.

This issue has been going on for years. There are many old maps, both Korean & Japanese, that recognize what is supposedly the island under many different names; furthermore, they place it in different locations around 울릉도 (Ulleungdo), the larger island west of Dokdo. These inaccuracies can easily be explained when one accounts for dynastic changes, local vs. official nomenclature, and the limited cartographical knowledge available at the time. Japan's proposed numerous times to take the matter before international court, but Korea's refused.

Conclusion: Let's put it like this. Korea claims that Dokdo, under the name of Usando, was first mentioned in The History of the Three Kingdoms during the Shilla Dynasty. As time progressed, different names have been given to the island, as it was uninhabited: Sambongdo (삼봉도, or 3-peak island), Seokdo (독섬 - Deoksam, or rocky island, is translated into into Hanja as both Dokdo and Seokdo), and Gajido (seal island). While old maps place Dokdo in the wrong spots, the fact remains that, despite cartographical errors, the islands under their various names were recognized by the Korean government as Korean territory. That's the Korean side. Yet in my limited research, nothing in Korean records indicates that Dokdo is officially Korean territory, much as I'd like to believe it. The fact that I know neither Japanese nor Chinese only stresses my inability to properly research available documents.

March 1936 Japanese Army General Staff office map
This marks the island as Korean

Japan also claims historical title to Dokdo; if that was the case, why do old, official Japanese maps recognize it as Korean territory? Furthermore, why did Japan annex it in 1905, if it has been Japanese territory for centuries, as some claim? Yet the fact that Japan recognized the land as Korean does not mean that Korea had ever claimed the land for itself. Some radicals claim that Koreans didn't know of the island's existence, but this is ridiculous; one can easily see the island from Ulleungdo on a clear day. Korea's knowledge of this island does not mean that it had formally claimed it as Korean land; however, this could possibly have been offset by Korea considering it de facto Korean territory.

My perspective is that neither side has made a foolproof argument that would stand up in court. I type this with regret because in my heart I believe that it is Korean land, but my head tells me that it's still debatable.

From a pro-Korean perspective, Korea should start thinking internationally; refusing to go before international court makes the world think it hasn't a case. Of course, it makes sense that the ROK wouldn't want to appear before international court. First of all, previous International Court of Justice decisions have favoured action over historical legitimacy. If the ICJ goes with this precedent, Korea may 'lose' (these decisions are non-binding) possession of the island. Hopefully (here's where this becomes very biased), though, the ICJ would take into account the fact that Korea, basically governed by Japan when Japan annexed the island, and didn't really have any say in the matter. In fact, when local Korean officials learned that Japan had annexed the island, they sent in protests to the central government. Why would they do that unless they understood it to be Korean land?

Furthermore, despite Korea's miraculous economic development, most people would favour Japan just because they are more familiar with its culture. The world is full of Japanophiles, just because of sushi, Honda and that ridiculous Pokemon or whatever anime is popular right now (not downing sushi or Honda, definitely downing Pokemon). Korea is still in many ways the hermit kingdom. 한류, or the 'Korean wave,' hasn't spread far outside of Asia. Korea needs to realize that the majority of developed nations (and much international power, rightly or wrongly) lie within Western civilization. Because Japan has spread its culture, and because Japan appears more westernized, western countries feel closer to Japan; people feel more comfortable with that which they recognize. Korea has already spread its companies into western nations; now it needs to spread its culture. (Hint, Korea: appearing like a developing nation on international television by rioting and assaulting police officers doesn't help your case.)

This matter needs to be resolved somehow, whether by sharing the island, or by throwing additional effort into researching the matter to conclusively decide the debate. I know this is obvious, but recent peninsular developments only increase the need for the ROK and Japan to work together closely. Kim Jong-Il's deteriorating condition, which the DPRK continues to deny, could lead to his death or incapability to govern the land. (I use the term 'govern' very loosely; I consider neither throwing people into gulags -- or worse -- for the smallest offenses nor obsessing about nuclear weaponry, expensive cognac and toys while one's population starves effective governing. But that's another matter, as well as a really long sentence. Apologies.)

If and when Kim Kong-Ill loses control of the DPRK, most likely the country will either be thrown into chaos, or the military will adopt a hard-line stance to solidify its power. Already the DPRK diplomatic pendulum is swinging back towards neuroticism. Each scenario poses a threat for both the ROK and Japan. The DPRK displays deep-seated resentment against both nations, and has threatened both nations on multiple occasions, through the use of military threats, or the kidnapping of nationals. A treaty with China promising mutual military aid raises the stakes. The ROK and Japan must resolve their differences and work together to protect themselves. Strange bedfellows, perhaps, but, in my opinion, necessary.

Current Events part 2

American beef: a study in illogic

Background: hoof-and-mouth is found in American beef, Koreans decide that the government is not doing its job of inspecting beef imports from America. Beef imports are about to be renewed, and people take to the streets. News media goes on a feeding frenzy: "there's a 94% chance of contracting vCJD from American beef" and "and an American died of vCJD"; both were false. Bloggers were no better: one rumour was that Americans sort their beef and send the bad beef to Korea.

The government renegotiates with the US, the US accepts the new contracts, and most people leave the protests. The remaining go on to deface public & private property, continuing to cut off downtown Seoul & disrupt public transit.

Conclusion: OMG. Are we freakin stupid?! When I was describing it to my K-A mother, she remarked that Koreans are susceptible to overlooking logic in preference of emotion; and I think that's a pretty good assessment of this case. Yeah, sometimes we have to make a point to the government, and illegally occupying a few streets to ensure personal safety should not be prosecuted.

But those who remained after the renegotiations are just a bunch of rabble-rousers: losers who are exploiting the circumstances to give themselves a sense of power, or conniving rats exploiting the circumstances to promote their political ideologies. They should all be sued and jailed: for preventing area residents access to emergency care by blocking streets, for assaulting police officers, for damaging private & public property, for hurting area businesses by discouraging patrons, and for targeting private businesses that were on their blacklists. Then after their sentences conclude they should be beaten by private citizens for all this, and for damaging Korea’s economy (fiscal credibility and FDI plummeted) and for making Korea appear to the international community as a group of self-centered hormonal apes on speed. Media who practiced biased reporting should have their licenses on probation; they should be so scared of handling controversial issues that they lose millions of dollars because their stories are centered mostly on water-skiing squirrels and cat fashion shows (needed an Anchorman throwback there, hahaha). As for those inciting hysteria online—they’re a bunch of cowards, hiding in their parents’ basements behind fake internet ids. They would yell "fire!" in a theatre, but it's just so much safer and more comfy for them to do it from the privacy of their parents' homes.

And to those in general who were swept away in the hysteria: seriously. 33,000 American soldiers died in the Korean War, we spent millions in economic & food aid, just so we could play the part of mad scientist and send our diseased beef (pre-sorted, of course) to poison and kill South Koreans? South Koreans who comprise one of our strategic allies in NE Asia and in the NK denuclearization/human rights talks? Especially now that there’s a pro-American president in office? Or was it all to make a few bucks on the beef sales? What an investment! What logic!

I just had a breakthrough re: this year's Halloween costume

Further Remarks: Korea has started a space program, it's created multiple Free Economic Zones, one of its own is the UN Secretary-General, and it has recently produced several world-class athletes—all these indicate that Korea wants to step up as a global player. Yet incidents like these prevent the international community from taking the country seriously.

Equally as important for Korea, though, is that incidents like these present Korea in a negative light to the rest of the world. Not only do they hurt the country economically, but they could also compromise its position in disputes, such as its claim to Dokdo: Japan's quiet reserve would appeal to the world much more favourably than Korea's raucous demonstrations.

Korea is an economic miracle. Its companies are some of the richest in the world. Despite its development, it still boasts a low crime rate. Its students are found in America's top universities and are known for their discipline and dedication. This is a country full of respectable and mature adults. People work hard, and save a lot of money. Yet there are a few radicals who will sacrifice anything for their own personal gains (I actually mean in addition to the corrupt CEOs). Korea needs to learn how to control these elements before they jeopardize the nation's economic and political interests.

Current Events part 1

I must admit, I’ve rather ignored the politics/current news aspect in my blogging. I’ve been self-centered in my blogging, focusing on me & my travels instead of including the world around me. Actually, I’ve been extremely self-centered in my blogging, focusing on me & my travels and not really doing any blogging. Today, for the day, that shall end.

Korea, and NE Asia in general, have been the focus of domestic and international attention for the past few months, and I have not even begun to address these issues. In my defense, however, I must point to the fact that work and my personal life have kept me very busy, especially these past two weeks. I just completed two weeks of English camp—2 90-minute classes each weekday morning—and, like a dolt, I had the novel idea of making up my own lesson plans and syllabus instead of relying on prepared plans. Needless to say, I was busy: most days saw me crawling into bed around midnight or one, most of my evening having been spent on the next day’s lesson.

But again, I’m digressing from my original goal and focusing on myself. Back to current affairs. In the last few months, we’ve seen the approach (and now arrival) of the Beijing Olympics, a nationwide hysteria (& subsequent rioting) about American beef, Japan’s renewal of its plans to seize Dokdo, and a South Korean tourist killed in North Korea. I will address each of these in a separate blog, presenting the background and my unexpert (but extremely common-sensical) conclusion on the topic. This will be a short four-part series. Here's your first little treat.

Beijing Olympics: how did that happen?

Background: China got the Olympics, Olympic Committee officials said, to open China up. BS. In addition to NOT improving its human rights records at all, China has decided to delay broadcast to clean up any blemishes (people telling the truth about the country) and has restricted press freedom, which it explicitly promised not to do.

Conclusion: this isn’t the first time the glory of international bonding and competition has been tainted (think Berlin 1936), but it is dishonourable nonetheless. The Olympic Charter states, as a Fundamental Principle of Olympism, "Olympism seeks to create a way of life based on...respect for universal fundamental ethical principles." Since when do universal fundamental ethical principles include repression of religious freedom, political dissidence, the freedom of the press, and self-determination? Since when do universal fundamental ethical principles include repatriating refugees, knowing full well that they will suffer torture, incarceration, and/or execution? By choosing Beijing as the 2008 venue, the IOC has indirectly condoned these rights violations practiced regularly by the host country. I think inquiries should be made into both the integrity & intelligence of the IOC members.

Decisions, decisions

16 May 2008

Today was a wonderful day. Until about 30 minutes ago. 30 minutes ago, a simple question forced me to face my future, and started a chain of thoughts which only provoked some very unwelcome questions.

What happens when you’re forced to choose between what you want to do in the present and the possibility of doing what you dreamed of achieving in the past? What happens when you suddenly realize that everything you worked for in the past, everything that was of upmost importance, might not matter anymore? Or, though it does matter, it just doesn’t matter as much? What do you do when you feel a realignment of priorities, but are unsure whether this is a temporary or permanent shift, and despite this uncertainty, have to make a decision which will definitely be a permanent decision? What do you do when you need to make a decision that will determine your future and you don’t know what you want your future to look like?

Here’s the deal. Five months ago I applied to various law schools, naively expecting a simple ‘yes’ or ‘no’ response. Two graciously extended a ‘no’; one never did respond; and three put me on the waitlist.

Let it be known that I think waitlists are the spawn of Satan.

They place you in a sort of damned-if-you-do, damned-if-you-don’t limbo. You can’t pursue your life because there’s the remote possibility of acceptance; you can’t remove yourself from the waitlist because then you are permanently screwed as far as that school is concerned.

A few weeks ago my co-teacher KyungHee had asked if I planned on renewing my contract. I had decided, to myself, to renew it if I didn’t get accepted into the law schools. Really, I enjoy my job: I love my kids, and my coworkers are a blast to be around. I’ll admit that there was a smidgen of hope that I could stay and work here for another year. Is that being irresponsible? Is that placing temporary desires above my future? I don’t know, but that’s what I felt.

I had asked her to give me until May 15 when I receive my response for the waitlist…or 16^th, when one accounts for the time differences. And today, May 16^th, she asked me again.

I didn’t have an answer. I had checked my email, and I had not made the first cut on the waitlist. I was re-waitlisted.

I told her of the situation and asked her if I could have a little more time to think it over, and she was nice enough to say yes. We agreed that I’d let her know on Monday.

So here I am, faced with one of the largest decisions of my life. Right now, I’m feeling pretty stressed.

17 May 2008

Today was a pretty nice day. JungMin and I decided to take advantage of the pleasant spring feeling, and took our Broadcast Club kids to a movie. We caught a 9:30 screening of Prince Caspian; it’s 4,000원 for the kids, and free for teachers. Sweet! The film was really good, but also really long; it felt a little bit weird walking around after sitting for so long! The kids really enjoyed it, and I could tell that my girls had crushes on Peter (which is perfectly reasonable, as I had to keep reminding myself that he’s much younger than I!) because their whispering always got louder when he was in the scene.

After the film we let the kids go, and I went home. No plans today, just laze around and clean up the flat. But there was one very important thing I had to do.

I called my mom.

Yesterday KyungHee had suggested that I ask my parents for advice regarding my renewal decision. I had just smiled on the inside; I rarely ask anybody for advice, and I never ask my parents for advice.

Yet as my mind went in circles, her suggestion made more and more sense. Really, neither of my parents has ever had to make a decision like this one. But I know that they’ve made hard decisions before, and they have plenty of experience; if anything, they would just be fairly objective guides who could help walk me through my thoughts.

I had mostly decided to renew my contract. Part of the reason why I didn’t want to call mom is because I was afraid that she’d disagree with my decision. Being a Korean mother, she’s the one who’s been pushing me to apply to law schools; she wants me to hurry up and settle down.

I was surprised. Mom was perfectly objective; she didn’t let any of her personal feelings lend subjectivity to the choice. As I spoke with her, I realized that, really, it’s simple logic: if I decide to renew my contract, I will have a job I enjoy and risk getting accepted by a school and not going. If I decide not to renew my contract, I will not have a job I enjoy, and I risk not getting accepted by a school and having to start all over with my job hunt and my law school applications. I risk losing more by not renewing. She felt the same way and recommended that I renew my contract.

I felt so relieved after talking to her. Sorting out my thoughts and getting backing for my decision from an unexpected quarter made me feel so much more confident. When I’m indecisive, I feel unconfident; when I’m unconfident, I feel vulnerable. Those feelings melted away as I spoke with my mother.

Thanks, KyungHee, for the wonderful advice.

27 May 2008

Whoa, I’m typing this up, and it sounds SO sappy. Eew. Apologies.

Cheollanamdo Day 3

12 May 2008

Very short log today: I had a very uneventful bus ride home. Traffic was surprisingly light, and we arrived back in Seongnam around 2p. I was lucky enough to be on the side of the bus that has a seat by itself, so I was very comfortable. No leaning away from sleeping people this time around, and no pineapple juice on my shoes. It turns out I spent two nights in Gwangju and didn't see any more of the city than what I viewed from a bus window...

Cheollanamdo Day 2

11 May 2008

The first bus left at 8:20. As I lay in bed this morning I decided to catch the second bus. Really, I'm totally not motivated on this trip. I'm lying down on a granite seat outside the Express Terminal, enjoying the sunshine. The next bus leaves around 11. I can't believe I'm actually keeping up with my journaling. Usually I'm too busy. If I was with someone I wouldn't even do this. The only reason why I journaled Seoraksan is because I started before I met 대용, and I hate leaving things incomplete. Right now I'm tempted to buy a book at the Yongpoong bookstore inside the terminal, but 1) I don't want to have to lug it around, and 2) I only want to buy books at Kyobo because then I can get rewards points.

I have nothing to say so I'm done for now.

* * *

Wait in the morning, rush in the afternoon. What fun.

I got to the Hwaeomsa bus stop around 12:30. I asked the driver what time the last bus was, and he told me it leaves at 1. I knew this wasn't true because I could have sworn that a bus left Gwangju around 16.25. He obviously didn't understand my phone dictionary Korean. I just decided to work on my own conclusions, as usual. If the bus leaves Gwangju at 16.25, it would arrive at Hwaeomsa around 18.05, giving me 5 1/2 hours of free time. Moon listed the hike to Nogodan (노고단) as 4 hours. Crunch time.

Why am I always experiencing crunch time?!

It took me about 15 minutes to reach Hwaeomsa. It was a beautiful complex, but I wasn't really in the mood to fully appreciate it; I had to continue quickly in order to reach my destination, this was my third mountain temple in three weeks, and mountain temples just seem weak in comparison to Duryunsa. The preparations for Buddha's birthday, though, were impressive. As usual, the complex was covered in paper lanterns, but this was the first time I was able to witness monks hanging prayers on the lanterns. The shrines were beautiful. In addition to multiple gold-plated Buddhas and Buddhavistas, there were pyramids of small lit candles. Flanking the Buddha in the center were two white pillared candles with painted dragons sculpted on. This was a magnificent sight.

Monks hanging up prayers

Pretty lanterns!

The gate to the monks' quarters was open, so I got a glimpse inside as I walked by. It's a long chain of rooms, each with a wooden floor and a pile of bedding. It kind of reminded me of palace servants' quarters in K-dramas, but at the same time it looked quite modern. Walking along were some monks-in-training, about 14 or 15, with shaved heads.

Snap some pix and time to go.

Hwaeomsa to Nogodan is a 7 km hike. The first 30 minutes or so is a bamboo forest. This took a good 2 km out of the hike, and thankfully it was an easy 2 km.

The next 5k -- not so easy. I figured that if I could manage 2 km/hour, I could make it to the top by 3:30, leaving 2.5 hours to get back to the bus stop in time for the last bus.

Of course I would have to leave by 4p at the lastest. Which means that I'd go as far as I could, then turn back. As exhausted as I was, I didn't really expect too much of myself, and my tired side and competitive side were waging a battle about whether I'd summit.

How is it possible that a steep, strenuous 3-hour climb could energize somebody? But it did. About halfway up I realized that I had to reach the top. My pace quickened. Short bursts of energy hit me just as I turned a bend and got dejected by the sight of more steps. Twice on the way up I was encouraged by people coming down. One guy gave me a thumbs up. A woman said, in Korean, "Good job." Her daughter quickly said, in Korean, "Mom, she's a foreigner. Say [in English] 'Excellent.'" I couldn't help but laugh at that. I was tempted to say "맞어" but I didn't want to embarrass the mother. Those two people reminded me that even small acts of kindness can uplift and energize somebody.

Then I ran out of water. Moon had mapped a spring about halfway to Nogodan, but either it dried up or I missed it. Regardless, my mouth was dry and I was sweating out a river without replenishing it. For me, water is like a safety blanket. My aching legs, the sights of more steps and my empty water bottle affected me physically and mentally. Gawd. How pathetic. I can imagine myself in a desert; I'd just curl up on the sand and wait for the vultures...

I was actually at the point where I was seriously considering filling my bottle in the crystal-clear creek. Even the thought of people wading in the water upstream wasn't a deterrent. The thing that did stop me, though, was the thought of microbacteria and how it could adversely affect my digestive tract on the bus ride home tomorrow.

I'm naturally a fast walker, which makes me a fast hiker. A fast hiker with a time limit, determined to summit, becomes a faster hiker. I was catching up to some people, and as I got closer, I began to wonder if they were white. I finally caught up to the last person. He nodded at me, and I waved to him; we were both too short of breath to actually speak. He joined his group on a large rock, and I sat down for a break as well. It was almost 3:30, I had 1.5 km left, and I was thinking about turning around.

We didn't talk much. Just hello's all around, and I didn't really look at them. I was thinking about where I could find some water. Then he asked me if I lived in Bundang. I looked at him, and he DID look familiar. He's Geoff, a guy in a rock-climbing group on Facebook. How weird, to travel for 4 hours and run across somebody that you actually know. We talked a bit. I told them that I was getting ready to turn around so I could catch my bus, but they managed to persuade me to continue. So I got up, we wished each other luck, and I left.

It was only about 10 more minutes til I reached the ridgeline. It was beautiful. I love the feeling of accomplishment that accompanies the completion of a particularly difficult hike. But I wasn't finished, not yet. My goal was the Nogodan mountain hut, and as far as I had already come, I wasn't about to stop. The road to the mountain hut is not steep, and it was a rather pleasant walk. When I reached it, I filled my water bottle, drank half, and filled it up again. There were trails and signs leading away from the mountain hut. I checked my time: 3.30. I could make it to the pass by four, I was sure.

View from the ridgeline

The way to the pass was steep, but more relaxing. When I reached the pass another lone hiker and I traded photo shoots, then I began to head down. I could see the peak in the distance, but I knew I couldn't reach it quickly. But I had exceeded my goal, so I could leave satisfied.

Nogodan Pass

As I was coming down I ran into Geoff and his friends again. One of them informed me of a bus that actually goes from the mountain hut to Hwaeomsa. It was tempting...but I had planned to hike up and hike down; to do any less would leave my task incomplete. So I began the knee-jarring, dangerous trek back down.

I arrived back at the Hwaeomsa bus stop just before six. I stopped by a CVS nearby and picked up some water (the mountain hut water was refreshing at first but had a funky taste) and a Korean snickers, then returned to the bus stop.

Around 18.05 a bus to Gurye arrived, and I hadn't yet seen the bus to Gwangju. I decided to try my luck on the Gurye bus and try to catch a ride to Gwangju from there. The bus driver was very kind and informative; he spoke with the passengers, and when I saw the terminal and tried to get off, he told me to wait, as the bus actually stops at the terminal. At the Gurye terminal I caught a bus to Gwangju, and settled in. I had accomplished everything I had set out to accomplish. My long day was complete.

Cheollanamdo Day 1

10 May 2008

I'm getting a little travel-weary. To be honest, I kind of miss 서울. I'm not sure if it's because I miss our usual haunts, or if it's the very agreeable person whose company I suspect I'll miss. But I digress. I really miss Seoul. And I'm really tired. This whole morning discipline thing is getting to me. Five hours of sleep a night for over a month...I'm fatigued. Apparently I have the am discipline down (mostly -- I still run the last 15 metres to work!) but am having issues with the pm discipline; I've been reading some really interesting books lately and it's hard to force myself to go to bed.

I decided three times not to go anywhere. The important thing, though, is that I decided four times to go. A three-day weekend is just too much to pass up. So here I am...

In the little town of Hampyeong (함평). I woke up at 6 to catch the 7.30 to Jinju (잔주), decided it wasn't worth it, and promptly went back to sleep. The problem with waking up, though, is that one can never really go back to sleep. So I intermittently dozed on and off before I finally just decided to end my misery and get out of bed. The misery wasn't so much not sleeping; it was the indecision of whether I really wanted to go. I had packed my bags last night, and that ultimately was the deciding factor.

When I got to the bus stop I learned that the 10 o'clock was full and the next bus would leave at 1. Granted, I'm a foreigner, but who's even heard of Jinju?! I certainly hadn't until yesterday when my coworker 석남 told me to go there to reach Jirisan (지리산) Park. But apparently a whole busful had heard of it and had been diligent enough to buy a ticket before I could...

So I got one to Gwangju (광주). There are two Gwangju's: one in Gyeonggido just 15 minutes from my house, and the one in Cheollanamdo (천라남도), which takes a bit longer to reach. I'm talking Cheollanamdo. I figured I'd just hit the western side of the park rather than the eastern. Looks like actually reaching Jirisan summit will have to wait until a later trip.

Unlike most trips, I consulted neither Moon nor LP en route (I brought Moon with me, as it seemed to contain more details). Instead, I pseudo-dozed. It seems like everytime I was about to sleep my mind would snap and wake me up. I know that I did sleep once, because I woke up to a different song on my mp3 player.

The man sitting next to me obviously had no problem sleeping on the bus. I had the problem with him sleeping on the bus. He tended to lean. Being in the window seat, he usually rested against the window, but occasionally he would reposition himself and I would find myself leaning as well. At one point he was practically horizontal; consequently, so was I. He woke up, saw me leaning away from him with a rather bemused look, and immediately settled himself against the window and fell back asleep. It reminds me of the Mr. Bean episode where he falls asleep in church.

The trip was shorter than I had expected. Traffic was nasty around Seoul but surprisingly we were speeding along within an hour. 대용 texted me at a rest stop in 정주. I told him I think we were still north of 대전, but later when I looked at a map I realized that Jeongju is about 2/3 of the way through the trip. The whole ride lasted less than 4 hours.

At the Express Terminal I was indecisive once again (looking back, this seems to have been the theme of my weekend). When I'm with other people, I'm not domineering, but alone I know what I want to do and I do it. Unfortunately, the only thing I wanted to do was go back to Seoul and see... I've never really felt alone when traveling before, but it was an acute feeling this time; I think it's just the fact that my companionship last weekend is such a contrast to my solitude this weekend. Three too-short days managed to spoil me.

Originally I had planned to go to Gurye (구례) today, which is only a short bus ride to Jirisan Park. But that leaves the issue of my baggage. I could sleep there tonight, but I wanted to sleep in Gwangju Sunday night so I could make an early bus back to Seoul; 대용 and I had agreed to meet up if I could make it back early enough. If I didn't purchase a room for two days, though, I'd have no place to leave my extra bag; I think Gurye is a small town and I doubt its Express Terminal will have locker storage.

I finally decided to get a room in Gwangju for two days, and just go to Jirisan and return in the same day. That left me with another decision: get a room near the Express Terminal and take a bus home, or get one near the train station and take a train home? The train would be more convenient and comfortable, there was a variety of lodging around the train station, and traffic wouldn't be an issue, but would there be an available seat? More importantly, would I want to sleep near the train station and wake up earlier tomorrow in order to get the earliest ride to Jirisan?

대용 helped me make a decision. He suggested I hit up Hampyeong tonight to see a festival there. I know that I wouldn't want to go to the train station, get a room, return to the bus terminal, catch a bus to Hampyeong, return to the bus terminal, then go back to the train station, only to wake up early tomorrow morning and return to the bus terminal. Bus terminal lodging it is.

Apparently the only lodging within walking distance is of the love motel variety. I looked for the least seediest (the one without the curtained garage doors) and booked a room. I did have to call a few times before the owner came down; I'd imagine she usually doesn't have renters before 9 o'clock. I'll admit, though, the frosted windows and red & black curtains certainly lend a welcoming, homey feel...

Back to the bus terminal. I bought a ticket for Hampyeong and tried to get one for the 8:20 to Hwaeomsa (화엄사) tomorrow, but I can't purchase it in advance.

The scenery en route to Hampyeong was as picturesque as other areas in Cheollanamdo, but I was too tired to take it in. I mostly dozed.

There as a teenager sitting next to me, with a group of two friends. Around the beginning of the ride -- while we were still in Gwangju, actually -- he tried putting his pineapple slushie in the cupholder in front of him. I saw this just as he was turning back towards the aisle to talk to his friend and thought, "That's going to fall out." Maybe I jinxed it, because just then it did.

It was like slow motion. I don't know if I could have stopped it, but I didn't try. Maybe it was that my fatigue had put me into zombie mode and I didn't even think to react. Or maybe, just as likely HA!, I subconsciously wanted to punish him for being stupid enough to put his cup in an obviously too-small cupholder. Either way, it came crashing to the ground and erupted pineapple juice all over the floor.

He didn't know what to do. His friends laughed at him, then managed to scrounge up some tissue which couldn't even begin to clean up the mess. So I spent my ride in a half-zoned state surrounded by yummy pineapple juice scents.

Hampyeong is a very interesting place. It is like a huge city-wide carnival. Right now it's hosting the 2008 World Butterfly and Insect Expo. I'd like to see it when it's not in festival mode; I bet it's a sleepy hamlet contrasting the bright and loud atmosphere I witnessed.

It was amazing. Outside the Expo the city is a sea of white food tents. One particularly large dining area featured a performer to entertain the guests. Her crooning (I believe it's a she...sounded like a man, but wore a dress) could be heard across the grounds. The band was good, she wasn't, but it was still fun. The Expo itself was beautiful. The grounds were colourfully decorated, and the lamps even had giant plastic caterpillars which housed speakers for public announcements. I'm sure it would have been so much nicer if I could have gone inside.

Entertainer at a dining tent

That's right. I arrived around 7; it closes at 5. Just as I found this out at the ticket gate, 대용 called me to let me know. He must have been checking it online and found out. He apologized, but I told him it's OK; there are still plenty of other things to enjoy.

Butterfly Expo...from outside the gate

It seems the town had spent a fortune to prepare for the Expo. The roads were freshly paved and the sidewalks freshly laid. There was still dirt everywhere from the construction work. Flowers and small conifers had recently been planted beside the sidewalks; the grass hadn't begun to grow yet. On the top of a small hill near the Expo was a large rock that was brightly lit. I headed there. The hill, and the view it provided, were both lovely.

Carnival outside the Expo

At one point as I was walking down the road a car pulled over and a woman stuck her head out the window to ask me where the Expo is. Her face registered surprise when she saw me, and she almost stuck her head back in to drive away, but I gave her directions, also informing her that it's closed. Weird. That's the second time today that somebody has asked me for directions. I feel like Sammi. How can they mistake me for a Korean girl? Kory girls are never scrubbed out like I am. Scrubbing out for them takes a considerable amount of preparation to make themselves appear scrubbed out. I just scrub out because I'm lazy and want to be comfortable.

After about two hours I headed back to the Express Terminal to catch the last bus. That's something to get used to out here. All the buses shut down so early.